Highlights hour news SIHH-2015
This year in Geneva for the 25th time passed Salon of Haute Horlogerie (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie - SIHH). A quarter-century ago, few watch companies supreme hour category to take decisive move towards the crowded Basel exhibition and organized a "competing business." This is explained by the fact that there is no need "hour aristocrats" to represent their achievements where many professionals along with a random audience. Since, unlike the Baselworld, which can buy a ticket anyone, the SIHH remains a closed event. Sellers, collectors and media - every person - Foundation invites Haute Horlogerie.
Among the 16 brands represented at the SIHH in the anniversary year, most part of the Richemont Luxury Group. There are independent companies - Audemars Piguet, Parmigiani Fleurier, Greubel Forsey. The only non-Swiss manufacture, admitted in "big league hour" - the German A. Lange & Sohne (by the way, it produces its watches only in platinum and gold cases).
Most prime salon - a high art of watchmaking, not forming general trends fashion watch. People come here to look at the most amazing and unusual invention micromechanics.
Duomètre Sphérotourbillon Moon
In Duomètre Sphérotourbillon Moon unprecedentedly precise moon phase indicator, it can not display errors during the lunar cycle for 3887 years! For comparison: the traditional moon phase at odds with the real lunar cycle on the day after only two and a half years, and the "perpetual calendar" Jaeger-LeCoultre accumulates daily error of 122 years. Of course, phenomenal accuracy of the lunar calendar for nearly 4 thousand years - hardly the most practical and necessary function. But it will always be interesting to talk to, and what is one of the meanings of haute horlogerie. The housing of platinum with a diameter of 42 mm and a height of 14 mm 3. Tourbillon with two rotation axes. Moon phase. The second time zone. Dual-Wing concept: two independent mechanisms (the one responsible for the precision of the other - for the functions of the job). Manual winding. Limited edition (75 copies).
Rêves de Panthères watch
In reality, these watches make a stronger impression than on the screen. As many as three "totem" animal grade - three Panthers - adorn the dial, thoughtfully watching the sunrise and sunset and the moon: hours used one of the complications of Cartier brand "day / night". Drive imaging Sun and Moon (these luminaries at the same time serve as pointers hours) rotates in a circle, and the only arrow shows minutes.
Casing made of white gold with rhodium (diameter 42 mm, height 11, 75mm). Diamonds, black lacquer. Manufactory mechanism with car factory, a power reserve of 48 hours. Dark blue alligator strap.
Métiers d'Art Mécaniques Gravées
Very beautiful version of the caliber 4400 manual winding - one of the basic mechanisms of the manufactory. The watch is released in honor of the 260 th anniversary of Vacheron Constantin. Mechanism engraved handmade (floral pattern resembling the engraving in the first pocket watches mark) is placed in a housing of platinum with a diameter of 39 mm. From engraver requires thoroughness and accuracy in processing components: many of them are thinner than 1 mm. Recess depth 0, 2 mm create the effect of volume and stress relief of the pattern, the richness of which can be assessed only through a magnifying glass. Engraved on one caliber takes more than 10 days of work. Housing made of platinum with a diameter of 39 mm, a mechanism with manual winding tourbillon, power reserve of 65 hours.
Emperador Coussin 1270S
The company is famous Piaget ultra-thin movements, as well as complications in them. Emperador Coussin 1270S - is the world's thinnest automatic watch Skeleton Tourbillon: the height of the housing a total of 8, 85 mm. This model is a kind of "inverted" structure refers to the male line Black Tie. Ultrathin (5, 05 mm) automatic mechanism in the form of "pillow" designed specifically for the body of the same shape. The hour and minute hands are shifted to the center. Similarly biased micro-rotor (left) and the tourbillon (above), decorated with the letter "P" - the initial letter of the brand name.
White gold case diameter 46 of 5 mm and a height of 8 85 mm, a car factory manufacturing mechanism, tourbillon, power reserve for about 40 hours.
Luminor Submersible 1950CarbotechTM 3 Days Automatic 47mm
The new composite material Carbotech first used in haute horlogerie and watch making in general. This material based on carbon fiber matt-black surface of which varies according to the cutting direction, so each instance is unique. In the manufacturing process a thin carbon fiber sheet with the addition of the polymer pressed under heat and pressure. According to some Carbotech properties superior to ceramics and steel. Material is lightweight, tamper-proof and corrosion.
Housing diameter 47 mm, water resistant to 300 meters, automatic manufactory mechanism, date display, second hand, measurement of dive time, power reserve of 72 hours. Rubber strap. The kit includes a spare strap and a screwdriver.
24 Tourbillon range Secondes Vision
The most unusual in this model - its classic look: the avant-garde Robert Grebel and Stephen Forsey first made perfectly round and relatively thin as possible, watch. Usually asymmetric brand model, with lateral projections for corporate tourbillon with an inclination of 25 degrees and the "world clock" in the form of a three-dimensional globe require additional space. But this watch tourbillon transparent sapphire dome onto the back surface. Surprisingly, protruding hemisphere hand does not stop: the journalists had the opportunity to see this first hand.
Limited edition (22 copies), the automatic manufactory caliber, white gold case diameter 43, 5 mm, height 13, 65 mm (dome 16, 025 mm), a power reserve of 72 hours.
Concept Acoustic Research
The Manufacture Audemars Piguet showed concept watches with an innovative system repeater - Concept Acoustic Research. For his development took 8 years of research in collaboration with the École Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne. Usually fight repeater is designed for hearing only the owner hours. But this repeater sound so loud that it is easy to hear the surrounding. The company has developed the controller almost completely eliminates the mechanical noise produced by the gongs. Sealed casing brought to the level of diving hours. Not that this repeater worth to dive - but it speaks about the ability of masters to make a "sounding" even waterproof case with natural volume restrictions. The concept will be further developed and tested in the course of the year, so buy these watches is not yet possible. The housing diameter of 44 mm made of titanium, a rubber strap. Manufacturing mechanism with manual winding, a stock of 48 hours, chronograph (central hand and minute counter 30 for 3 hours), the minute repeater (lever 8 hours) and the tourbillon.
Creating more than 10 years in a row skeletonized mechanisms Manufacture Roger Dubuis announced the 2015 "Year of the skeleton." In a series of Excalibur Spider manufactory subjected skeletonizatsii and housing, and even arrows. Excalibur Spider - this skeleton double flying tourbillon (floating - fixed at one point), and Roger Dubuis - the only company that makes the watch of this type. The case and dial form a multi-layered structure, red aluminum elements and titanium case emphasize the sporty character of the modern model.
Housing 47 mm diameter and a height of 14 to 95 mm, with manual winding mechanism (was setting the course in six positions), hours and minutes, the double tourbillon. Power reserve 50 hours. Limited edition (188 copies).
Lady Arpels Jour Nuit Oiseaux de Paradis
(Van Cleef & Arpels)
Models special collection dedicated to Poetic Complication "poetic" interpretation of mechanical watchmaking. Technique and aesthetics are equal. In the new model, "Birds of Paradise", interpretive complexity of day / night, reflects the idea of the eternal renewal of nature: a mechanism rotated almost imperceptibly, making one revolution in 24 hours - orange flower on the disk periodically replaced brilliant moon, and the only way we know now a day or night (hour mark on the dial is not present).
Casing made of white gold with a diameter of 38 mm, diamonds, old technology and enamel cloisonné chamleve. Automatic mechanism with 24-hour module. Alligator strap. Limited edition (22 copies).
The company Parmigiani Fleurier made a commemorative limited edition watch in honor of 10-year-old partnership with Bugatti automobile brand. The series includes three new models, each in a single copy: Bugatti Mythe, Bugatti Victoire and Bugatti Révélation. To create the first model with a transverse arrangement clockwork (Bugatti 370) in 2004 inspired watchmakers racing car Bugatti Veyron. This mechanism looks like a smaller copy of the automobile engine, having no resemblance to the usual mechanical watchmaking.
The decor of the anniversary model Bugatti Mythe used drawing radiator grille type 57 Bugatti decorated the first machines. Bugatti Révélation design is based on the diamond-shaped radiator grille netting Bugatti Veyron. The letter V in the model Bugatti Victoire design symbolizes the word "victory" and "speed".
Manual winding. Hours and minutes, power reserve of 10 days. Rose gold case 52, 5h32, 4 mm.
Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition "75th Anniversary"
Manufacture IWC Schaffhausen celebrates 75th anniversary collection of complicated watches Portugieser, named after the Portuguese navigators: in the era of "the great geographical discoveries" marine chronometers were a model of precision. Design Portugieser - large size, round case, laconic dial - in 1930 ahead of time when demand elegant rectangular watch in Art Deco style. Model Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition "75th Anniversary" was created in memory of the almost forgotten the old version of "Portuguese". Appearance is identical to the historical, but the manufactory IWC caliber c date display and an 8-day power reserve (its indicator is located on the back side of the clock) - the newest mechanics. Rose gold case with a diameter of 43 mm and 12 mm high. Mechanism with manual winding, power reserve of more than 8 days, date, small seconds with stop function. The strap is made by Italian shoe factory Santoni. Limited edition (175 copies).
Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères Vasco da Gama
Hours are named after European (besides Portuguese), paved the sea route from Europe to India. We are seeing an unusual time display system in three time zones. Time traveling show hour and minute hands, arrow home time as a heraldic lily - on a three-dimensional wind rose with time indices (6 hours), and a hemisphere with lines of latitude and longitude illustrate the "world clock": hemisphere fixed and the wheels 24 -chasovoy indication commit around one turn per day. Drive the northern hemisphere rotate clockwise, South - against. Winner of hours see which parts of the hemispheres is now illuminated by the sun, and which are not.
Rose gold case with a diameter of 47 mm and a height of 15, 38 mm. Tourbillon (12 hours). Manufactory caliber with manual winding, power reserve of 48 hours. Limited edition (18 copies).
Zeitwerk Minute Repeater
(A. Lange & Söhne)
If minute repeaters generally discourage hours, quarters and minutes, then Zeitwerk Minute Repeater clock beats, 10-minute intervals and minutes. This time specification corresponds to a digital format of the dial. Time does not show the two arrows, and one hour drive (left figure) and two minute (double the figure on the right). Exposed here time 7:52 so bounces 7 strikes low tone, 5 double strokes and tone pin 2 high. To the owner of the watch mechanism is not spoiled when you try to correct the readings during the sound is turned safety device: in the second it is impossible to pull out the crown. In addition, before the end of the sound stops switching digital time display drive. Another device prevents starting repeater, if the stock of the movement is less than twelve hours: repeater "eats" a lot of energy, and because of this can stop the clock itself.
The model will be produced only in a platinum casing diameter of 44 2 mm, with silver dial. Manufactory caliber.