7 volcanoes for the year
Instead of an epilogue ...
The merchant, going to swimming:
- What did you bring, youngest daughter?
- Bring me, sir, terrible monster for sexual pleasures and perversions!
- What do you mean, my daughter, I'm a father to you - I can not allow that!
- (sighs) Well ... go a long way .... Bring me, sir, vermillion flower.
All 2013 I was engaged in the implementation of the project "7 Summits for the year."
And now, a month later, it is time to tell you how everything seemed and what happened in reality.
So, in 2013, I ascended the seven volcanoes, on every continent on the highest volcano. I tried to make that it was possible for the year. And alone. What is not entirely successful.
In the end, I was the third person in the world to carry out this project, the first in Russia. Almost immediately after I performed project is another person and another is about to perform ...
Well, we can say that set a world record for speed of execution.
In fact, when the project was conceived, I was not going to set any records. More than that, I did a project some initially did not want to. The result was what we got. Not because he saw at the beginning. Not so.
Well, now, how it was ...
Some common memories.
The project - it sounds good. This is some kind of a complete whole idea. In fact, I was already on the 4 volcanoes of 7. And if Kilimanjaro - it's so good that I'm willing to come back again and again, to go again to Elbrus and Demavent did not want to.
7 What is climbing? Yes nonsense. Therefore, to give at least some passion for sport had to introduce a limited time frame. For example, one year. He's as big as the globe - it is so small. It was found that 7 independent expeditions to various parts of our planet for one year - a lot. True to this the overlap travel for work ... so I get a lot.
All this resulted in a terrible moral and physical fatigue. New impressions superimposed newer lubricating picture of the world of knowledge and reducing joy and every new climb was given more and more difficult.
To be honest, something I was tortured a little to drive customers to the mountain. Because you go all the time like a machine to calculate what to do to avoid problems and how razrulit problems, because they are still there. Instead of climbing to safely inspect the neighborhood, always solve some issues. And on the ascent, instead of to look around, look at the customer ...
In general, I just quietly go around the world and go to the mountain, nothing to worry, and for anyone not responding. For one thing about life at leisure to think about ...
It turned out that the walk for anyone not responding and walk alone - are two big differences. Somewhere already halfway loneliness is the throat rose. I wanted to have someone close by, with whom you can make plans to discuss the previous day. In the end, that there was someone who could kick towards the top, where lazy to get out of the tent. And nothing about the life of lonely nights I'm so far-fetched ...
There were, of course, and the pros. First, I read "Anna Karenina," re-read "The Idiot" and discovered Leskov.
Secondly, I met and talked to so many people from different countries. It is interesting.
Now, volcanoes and pictures.
Antarctica. Vulcan Seeley (4181 m). January 2013
Antarctica - it's a dream. And the rare case when a dream come true does not disappoint.
This tale is another planet. This is something inexplicable and fascinating.
Well, as a bonus - like where no man has gone before. How many more such places on our planet?
And the craziest hop on a plane
And the overall impression - of something sunny and very joyful. Although of course I remember once in the tent is frozen iron spoon to my language. Or like when climbing Sidley I waved like mad helicopter that somehow warm up them. Or both at Union Glacier was built snow shafts to the tent is not carried away ... But now it seems that all this was not true. And the truth - she is
From minuses. In Antarctica, I spent almost two months. At first she worked - drove two groups the highest mountain in Antarctica - Vinson Massif. Therefore, at the beginning of the expedition to Sidley, I do not want any beauty, adventure, and Antarctica. I wanted only one thing - to go home ...
About Antarctica in general and in particular Sidley
Africa. Tanzania. Kilimanjaro (5895 m). Umbwe route. February 2013
It is for this kind of I'm ready to go to Kilimanjaro again and again.
Umbwe route - straight as an arrow. The most deserted in the first part of the path (for the first two days and did not meet a single tourist).
From amazing. Almost died from the cold in the approaches
out of trouble. On the ascent decided to show that I am the most agile and athletic. As a result, the road to the crater surpassed all whom they can. At this power ran out and on the way to the top, I was a pitiful sight.
But still. Kilimanjaro - a love forever.
Asia. Iran. Demavent (5671 m). June 2013
The blue sky, white mountain, red poppies ... Very nice. Once there it is necessary to visit all means. But only one.
The country itself is surprisingly boring to ugliness. A variety of kebabs in a couple days start to get stuck in the throat
I lived in the family of my friend, a local guide Hussein. It was interesting to see how well they live really.
Homemade food is radically different from the endless kebab restaurants. Hossein teaches at the University of Tourism. At one session I was invited as a visiting star, and I'm a couple of hours answering numerous questions. It was interesting to find out what the Iranians like to know about us.
Of the minuses. On the climb I took two days. That is no acclimatization. It was not good.
On top of that day, I went up one - that's a plus. But that's to take a photo from the top of the flag, it was necessary to run it for about an hour - it is a minus
Europe. Russia. Elbrus (5635 m). July 2013
Elbrus - a man-made disaster. It is a disgrace to our country. So I do not like to walk.
The local population turned it into a tool for the extraction of money by any means. In this case, a complete unwillingness to do so is somehow civilized.
Perhaps that is why many times by foreigners who have been there, we always hear the same thing: "It's not a mountain, it is - Why mess.?" And stories about Elbrus toilets on drammatizmu not inferior to the most horrible horror movies.
In general, this attraction - bring the carcass as possible.
First on the cable car, then on snowmobile ...
My attempt from top to bottom on foot was misunderstood and ridiculed by all encountered by climbers (or correct to say "vozezzhatelyami"?)
It is true to a certain point, I myself thought I got excited. And almost turned back
Because it was necessary to do anything normal acclimatization and then we go to the bottom. Or the race weekend by technical means and not to show off.
Race Weekend with increased load - was not very.
Australia and Oceania. Papua New Guinea. Mount Giluwe (4368 m). September 2013
The journey in Papua - New Guinea - an event in itself strange. What can we say about mountain climbing in this country ...
Mountaineering is not there.
I never went to the top in rubber boots. Among the five Aboriginal obkurennyh
Do not spend the night in the caves of ancient people and danced in the Papuan tribe
And there was a difficult time, when my guides tried to convince me that it is impossible to go to the top. And I convinced them otherwise, for which they thanked me afterwards for a long time
Papua - New Guinea - is a place where, perhaps, once worth a visit to see a completely different life, where time has stopped many years ago. But where I did not want more to return. Never.
North America. Mexico. Orizaba Peak (5700 m). November 2013
An interesting country, beautiful mountain ... do not make me very enthusiastic. But in general could get a nice trip ...
But by November, my brain is already struggling to digest the new trip, and the body is tired enough that I got sick of the blue. On the climb I went sick.
Having lost the vote, completely lost the ability to communicate with others. Fortunately, everything ended well. I went up the mountain. In the ocean for a swim. And even in the last moment he managed to return to Mexico City and sit in his plane.
South America. Chile. Ojos del Salado (6893 m). December 2013
I saw a very small piece of Atacama. But even this small piece of shook my already shaken imagination.
This is a very, very beautiful. So beautiful that I know for sure that there will be back.
The very same end of the project turned out very drammatichnym ... an accident, operation, rapid ascent ... The case where the winners are not judged ...
Now I do not know by hearsay, what a great thing - motivation.
In Chile, operated on the little finger, stripped to the meat by hand, all broken broken I, without a moment's hesitation, without experiencing any problems, immediately checked out of the hospital and went up into the seven thousand ... Type: see the goal, I see no obstacles .. .
In Moscow, with only a little finger underwent surgery, after the same operation I died three days on the liabilities side, barely moving, and was recovering with difficulty.
That's all. I did not get what she wanted - a lovely walk through the beautiful places.
But I got something else. More valuable. Answers to many no questions asked.
Only one question, which I have repeatedly asked, as long as I have no answer: "What next?"