Travel Stony Tunguska
• on the Stony Tunguska Travel
On the day after his arrival in Baikit we went up the Stony Tunguska river Kamo and to learn about how to live in areas remote from civilization Evenki settlements.
Early in the morning we put forward on the embankment Stony Tunguska.
Load things in a motor boat and sail.
to accompany us a local hunter and fisherman Vitaly Anatolievich.
The entire journey in one direction took us the whole day. Along the way, he met only one village - Kuyumba and several small settlements. However, from time to time along the shore caught hunting cabin. Hunters sometimes go to fish for a few weeks, or even months. The territory of their sites is huge, so you have to build a few huts. There is always a primary in which the hunter spends most of the time. These huts are called "bases".
On the way we come across in the main vessel, loaded with oil. Have not yet built the pipeline, removal of "black gold" is only the river. Generally Kuyumbinsk and Yurubcheno- Tokhomskoye field are some of the most promising for development in the next 10 years.
The so-called "port", "Slavneft". The very well located a few kilometers from the coast.
After a couple of hours to come to the shore Kuyumba.
One of the abandoned houses near the river.
There are a few new homes built with government support.
Kuyumba population of approximately 150 people. There is a school, kindergarten, shop. Cellular there. Almost all the inhabitants are engaged only in hunting and fishing, working in Kuyumba almost nowhere. Some are held in shifts to work on oil wells, which are located nearby.
Well, almost everyone has his own farm. Someone keeps cows.
According to the local roads can only ride on such transport.
Also as a boat, you can get into Kuyumba even a helicopter, which makes the trip every 1-2 weeks.
of the village administration.
The first borehole Kuyumbinskoye field. Drilled in 1973.
Filling. Gasoline, like in a bike costs 34 rubles per liter 92.
Nicholas (left) - Native Kuyumba. It is engaged in manufacturing of wooden boats. Has promised to do many boats, interfere with this constant binges.
On the beach we met with local hunters.
The hunters say that gasoline has become too expensive, and for motor boats it should be quite a few - boat engine consumes Goradze longer than any car.
to swear laws because for geological exploration is not banned cutting glades up to 4 meters. After cutting the hunter does not receive any compensation, even though the animal is afraid of people and leaves.
However, the space for firewood for them are very far from the village. Sometimes we have to travel more than 100 kilometers and spend a lot of fuel for delivery.
50 Kilometers from Kuyumba is Forest Camp. Where 20 people work. They live in trailers and huts.
to fulfill orders both public and private. Per shift harvest up to 20 cubic meters of wood.
Workers essentially of Osharova, I sat at about 150 kilometers away.
Vitaly Anatolievich says that often they drink. Because of this, there is no discipline, and no one to control them, the work stands.
Meet lesopilschiki us quite kindly, offer a snack and drink tea - the hospitality of the people here have taken, or without the help sometimes have difficult, because the distances between settlements rather big.
Son Vitaly Anatolyevich.
Alex keeps order in the hut, preparing a meal.
Once again, a few hours of Tunguska, and we turn to the right - Kamo River.
The nature around sometimes fascinating.
Although it happens sometimes. Case of fire and to extinguish them on such a vast territory as the Evenkia is not easy.
to make stops in another hut.
Here we meet Nicholas. Fishermen call it Burbot. As said Vitaly Anatolievich - Nikolai good hunter, but a big drinker. Generally hunters much to drink is not accepted, because it interferes with fishing.
Ilyas. Born in Kazakhstan. As a child, his parents moved to Kuyumba. Powered by diesel station, and of course like everything else in Kuyumba engaged in hunting and fishing - one salary enough to feed his family. Visited in different cities, I saw how people live there, but it is not going to go anywhere. Vitaly A. asked him to be our guide for the Kamo River. The river is not as full-flowing as the Tunguska so at this time to pass on a motor boat, it is necessary to know how to go around the rapids and shoals.
In the evening finally get to the lodging place - one of the hunting huts on the Kamo River.
The nature around.
There is growing moss - the so-called reindeer moss. But the reindeer in the taiga are not bred, they are only in the north district Surinda. Although wild deer meet.
At dinner, quickly cooked soup pasta and stew. Vitaly A. got taken on the road - smoked trout and reindeer meat jerky.
The next day, at rest we saw elk, approached the river to the other shore. Attempts to shoot proved unsuccessful, was too far away.
The next day, the water in the river has taken a beating. Evenki tradition - throwing coins into the river before the threshold. It is believed that the way to appease the spirit of the river. So we did with our guides.
swim to the mouth of the Kamo. Here since 1952 is worth a meteorological station.
Claudia. He says that recently often come to bear. Weapons they do not, is not allowed. Dogs chase bears. Since it is not allowed guns, hunting is not engaged, just go fishing.
Works 3 people. 2 times a year, they imported products - canned food, cereals and other bare necessities. Is grown in greenhouses tomatoes, cucumbers.
Tunguska around Kuyumba.
It is near a small village, where Alexander lives with his family.
In addition to these live here another four people. Alexander says that gasoline has become very expensive, and sable - the only thing that brings in the income of his family is worth very little. Meat and fish to sell almost unprofitable, because the cost of transport is very high.
This is how people live far away from paved roads and cellular base stations. We can not say that they are living badly, everyone who is not lazy, can secure a normal life. Most of the locals no matter who sits in the Kremlin. If only the government did not interfere in their life with new laws limiting their crafts.
And finally we would like to show you some photos of the vast expanses of Evenkia from a height.